Cal Boter

In the old days, a bowl of Cheerios wouldn’t have cut it. If you were a laborer in Barcelona in the early 20th century, you would likely have begun the day with an esmorzar de forquilla, or “fork breakfast.” The term refers to hearty, heavy, meaty breakfasts typically paired with wine. 

Many of the places in Barcelona that used to serve esmorzar de forquilla have closed, but a few cling to the legacy. Every morning, from 9 a.m. to noon, Cal Boter, in the working-class Gràcia neighborhood, opens its doors to those who need a bit more to start off their day. A chalkboard menu spans dishes such as braised oxtail, tripe or pig trotters with snails, grilled lamb chops, baked salt cod with aioli, stewed pork cheeks and other dishes that would have the brunch crowd running in the opposite direction. 

Starters include the ubiquitous basket of bread and a simple but delicious salad of sweet onions bathed in olive oil, and sides include French fries or beans. (Esmorzar de forquilla generally doesn’t include rice, pasta, rice or soup.) This is breakfast, so yes there’s coffee, but even more so, there’s wine, served in a porró, Catalonia’s iconic glass vessel that negates the need for a glass.

Cal Boter, which dates back to 1986, has a classic feel via hand-painted tiles and vintage ads. The long space extends to a cozy dining room illuminated via skylights. These days, there aren’t so many laborers in Gràcia, and esmorzar de forquilla customers might include an older generation of locals, perhaps reading the newspaper with a porró, and the odd tourist.